Thursday, July 14, 2016

Prince Edward Island

Driving the eight-mile bridge connecting New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island gave us an expansive perspective on the island. We noted that there is no toll to cross the bridge onto the island, but quite a hefty toll to leave…odd.

When we arrived on PEI, we were amazed at how different the landscape was compared to New Brunswick. The roads were suddenly quite straight and flat and we were surrounded by bright red sandy soil much of it with potato plants flowering or dairy cattle. There were many signs along the way for rural town centers and it reminded us much of Grand Isle in Vermont…if it was surrounded by the ocean and much larger in land area.

We chose Linkletter Provincial Park for our first evening of camping, just outside the community of Summerside – one of the two “urban” centers of PEI. We set up camp overlooking Northumberland Strait and headed back into town to bike along the Summerside boardwalk. It followed shops and restaurants at ocean’s edge and transitioned into a separate bike path with views of the farmland across the bay.


Returning to our campsite, we were SWARMED by mosquitoes, thicker than we have ever experienced (yes – even thicker than Pharaoh Lake, Tom…). We must have been camping next to a salt marsh just after these bloodsuckers had hatched. In long sleeves, we ate chocolate fondue from a can with strawberries as quickly as possible and ran for the car where we would spend the rest of the evening. Suddenly, the fact that they only charge to leave PEI via the bridge made complete sense as we imagined a bidding war at the tollbooth after each visitor experiences these bugs!


Luckily, we had entertainment as the neighbors that just pulled in started wrestling with their overly complicated tent. The husband refused to help, electing rather to smoke cigarettes at the picnic table while the wife struggled. It wasn’t until an hour and forty minutes later that the tent took shape…we would have been willing to help had the husband been willing to help…sheesh!

The next morning, with mosquitoes still plastering the car, we drove to the showers and got out of the park with tires squealing. We followed the coast to West Point, where we walked along the red sandy beach, finding a striped lighthouse along the way.


We then drove to Tignish – a town on the northwestern side of the island, which happens to be the start of the Confederation Trail, a long distance rail trail that circles the entire province. We made lunch in the park (couscous, herring and corn wraps) before setting out. The trail was very flat and well maintained and we biked through forests and past many potato fields before making a quick u-turn.

Our next stop – after some dessert at the dairy bar was Cavendish, where we surprised Mary-Ellen and Karen for the evening. We spent the night sharing stories from our trips and playing music (and eating excellent second dessert), before hitting the hay.


We said our goodbyes that morning, before finding each other again at Prince Edward Island National Park. Lisa and I took our bikes on the bike path in the Cavendish section, which followed the shoreline overlooking many reddish bluffs along the way. It was the most scenic biking that we had seen to date on PEI, and the stiff wind offered some great exercise on the return trip.


We drove to the next portion of the National Park, for some views of interesting sand dunes and much more “normal” sandy beaches – rather than the reddish hue that we had become accustomed to on the trip. There seems to be no shortage of public beach frontage on PEI.


We found lunch at “Rick’s Fish n’ Chips” in St. Peter’s before following the road south towards Wood Island, to catch the ferry to Nova Scotia. They aren’t going to get that return toll from us after all – HA!



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